Welcome to the ultimate guide to skiing in Bariloche, Argentina. This place is a freeskier’s paradise with killer slopes and untouched powder. From tearing down South America’s largest ski resort, Cerro Catedral, to hitting the deep stuff in remote Baguales, skiing in Bariloche is a trip to remember. Want to know why our Argentine buddy turned up with a backpack full of cash, and where to taste the top-rated 1% of wines worldwide? Let’s dive in and get you stoked for some serious snow action in Bariloche!
Keep an eye on our Adventure Group Ski Trips as we may have ski adventures to South America on offer!
Note: it’s 2024 as we write this. Be aware that things can change quickly in Argentina, particularly prices and the exchange rate.
How This Epic Trip Came Together
Let me spill the beans on how our epic trip came together. I was on the hunt for some riding buddies through our OSSI Community, expecting the usual 80/20 male/female ratio. But, to my surprise, we ended up being five badass females and just one guy, plus our Argentine friend Agustín (a dude 😊). So, what was expected to be a male-dominated mix turned into a girl-powered adventure. I’m sure the guys didn’t mind, though. 😁
Getting to Bariloche
Flights to Bariloche
First things first, let’s tell you how we got to Bariloche. Most international flights will land in Buenos Aires at Ezeiza International Airport (EZE). Most flights to San Carlo de Bariloche will leave from the domestic airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP). Therefore, make sure to allow for enough time for the layover if you have to make the transfer (at least 4-5 hours recommended).
Find the best flight deals / cheap flights to San Carlos de Bariloche here.
Transfer Tips:
- Public Bus: TiendaLeón runs public buses between the airports and to the city center. You can book a ticket online on the TiendaLeón website.
- Book a Taxi: For those with large ski bags, you can consider booking a taxi at the official EZE taxi booth “Taxi Ezeiza,” which can arrange for a larger vehicle. Regular taxis are plenty at the official taxi stand but are usually too small for ski equipment. We’d recommend you contact the taxi service in advance over WhatsApp at +54 9 11 6525 1363. They understand English perfectly and are highly reliable. Prices can fluctuate wildly in Argentina. Currently, expect to pay an equivalent of USD 15-20 for a larger van for the transfer.
- Travel Time: The ride between airports can take anywhere from 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on traffic. Always allow for ample time to clear customs, claim baggage, and handle immigration.
- Transfer to the Hotel: Most hotels in Bariloche can help with booking a private car from the airport. The transfer costs around USD 25-30 depending on where your hotel is located.
Communication: Get a Local SIM Card
Please keep in mind that Argentina is a developing region. Guides typically do not use radios, so we highly recommend using your mobile phone to communicate with your guide and riding companions. It is crucial to stay in touch in case someone gets lost or separated from the group.
You can obtain a local Argentine SIM card at the airports, or if you have an eSIM, we strongly suggest ordering Yesim’s Argentina package before you fly. The quality of mobile and data coverage in Argentina is generally high.
Thanks to the millions of tourists visiting each year, many of Bariloche’s residents are reasonably fluent in English. However, knowing a bit of Spanish can be helpful, especially when navigating more local spots. Google Translate can come in handy if you don’t speak Spanish at all.
The Blue Dollar – Argentina’s Black-Market Currency
Alright, now let’s talk cash. Argentina’s got this thing called the blue dollar, which means you’ll score way more pesos for your bucks if you bring cash in hard currencies (USD or EUR) and know the right spots to exchange.
What is the Blue Dollar?
The blue dollar, also known as “dólar blue,” is an informal exchange rate that is significantly higher than the official rate. This parallel market emerged due to stringent currency controls imposed by the Argentine government, limiting the amount of foreign currency that residents could legally obtain. As a result, a black market developed where cash dollars are traded at much higher rates. This means if you bring cash, you’ll get more bang for the buck.
Keep in mind that USD 100 notes often fetch better exchange rates than smaller denominations, but it’s wise to carry some smaller bills for tips. Service staff always appreciate receiving tips in hard currencies.
You can look up the current official and unofficial rates on websites like bluedollar.net. The fact that the rates are published already tells you that it is a black market open to everyone. As a tourist, you do not need to fear any consequences if you participate in this cash economy, other than having to watch out for counterfeit currency (more about it below).
Current Context
Under the new leadership of President Javier Milei, there are plans to lift currency controls and potentially dollarize the economy. These changes are intended to stabilize the economy and curb inflation, but they also create a dynamic environment where the blue dollar rate currently fluctuates significantly.
Why Use the Blue Dollar?
- More Bang for Your Buck: You get a much better exchange rate compared to the official rate. At times, the blue dollar has yielded 100% more than the official rate. Typically, you can expect it to be 30-50% above the official rate.
- Cash is King: Many local businesses will be willing to exchange Argentine pesos against your USD or EUR. Our friend Agustín would sometimes talk to a shop owner to exchange the currency. The advantage of changing your cash in shops is that the risk of counterfeits is relatively low. Shop owners love to receive hard currencies to secure their income against inflation, and are unlikely to deal with counterfeits.
Money Tips for Argentina
- Bring Cash: Bring USD or EUR in cash with you to Argentina to exchange on the blue dollar market. Using credit cards, bank transfers, or ATM withdrawals will fetch the official exchange rate, which is much less attractive.
- Exchange Locations: Exchange money at trusted “cuevas” (informal exchange houses) or shops. Look up the current rates. In some places, you can negotiate.
- Street Changers: You may encounter people on the street shouting “cambio” to offer currency exchange. While many may be trustworthy, there is a risk of counterfeit currency. It’s safer to find a reputable cueva.
- Shops: As mentioned above, shop owners tend to be trustworthy since they are eager to receive hard currencies and are less likely to deal with counterfeits than the street changers.
- Avoid ATMs and Banks: The exchange rates at these places are less favorable since you will only fetch pesos at the official rate.
- Safety First: Carry as much cash as you feel comfortable with for your expenses and activities. The more you pay in cash, the more value you get. However, be cautious and keep it safe. Check if your hotel offers a safe. If not, we’d recommend keeping the cash on you all the time. While being assaulted in the street is rare, it’s still better not to keep your cash lying around.
A Backpack Full of Cash
I bet you’ve been itching to hear the story about why our buddy rolled up with a backpack full of cash. After reading about the blue dollar, you might have a clue. On our first day shredding at Cerro Catedral, Agustín suggested we hit the groomers to get our legs warmed up and scope out the terrain. He told us to leave our safety gear and backpacks at the hotel.
When we showed up, there was Agustín, rocking a backpack. We were puzzled and asked, “Didn’t you say no safety gear?” Agustín just grinned and said, “This isn’t safety gear, it’s my Argentine wallet.” The day before, we handed Agustín our USD stash, and he flipped it for pesos at the blue dollar rate, scoring us way more bang for our buck. Our hundred-dollar bills turned into a hefty stack of pesos, covering our lift tickets and freeride guide. You can imagine the wad of cash Agustín was hauling around.
Skiing in Cerro Catedral
Overview
Cerro Catedral is where the magic happens when skiing in Bariloche. With over 120 km of runs, this place is a playground for all skill levels. From beginner groomers to expert steeps, skiing in Bariloche at this resort offers something for everyone. The ski resort is named after its cathedral-like spires and is the largest in South America.
When to Visit Cerro Catedral
Ski season in Bariloche runs from June to October, but the prime time to shred is from beginning of July to the end of August. For the ultimate ride, aim to hit the slopes after San Martin Day, which goes down on the third Monday in August. This coincides with the week with the highest historical snowfall (see graph below). Once the locals are back to school and work, the crowds thin out, leaving you with the mountain practically to yourself.
Ski Tickets
Ski tickets at Cerro Catedral aren’t exactly cheap. This place is South America’s largest and most famous ski resort, drawing in the country’s elite. So, get ready for some hefty ticket prices, especially when inflation is on the rise.
If you want to skip the lines, snag your tickets online. But remember, paying online means you miss out on the blue dollar rate, since your credit card gets hit with the official rate. It’s a trade-off—time vs. money. If you’re down to line up at the ticket office and pay in cash like our buddy Agustín did, you’ll get more bang for your buck. You could try grabbing multi-day tickets to avoid daily lines, but sometimes, during high inflation, they only sell 1-day tickets since prices can skyrocket overnight. Just another fun quirk of skiing in Argentina!
Rental Gear
There are tons of rental shops at the base to hook you up with gear. In general, you can find sweet, modern equipment at Cerro Catedral, as it’s South America’s largest ski resort and attracts the country’s elite. However, we always recommend bringing your own gear if you can, especially your boots. Rentals aren’t cheap because Argentines have to import the gear from abroad. With the peso dropping faster than a downhill racer, importing gear is a pricey endeavor.
The Terrain in Cerro Catedral
Cerro Catedral is a skier’s paradise, boasting a diverse range of runs that cater to all skill levels. Spanning over 1,200 hectares, it’s the largest lift-accessed ski area in South America with a vertical drop of 1,070 meters. With more than 60 slopes, it offers 15% beginner, 60% intermediate, 20% advanced, and 5% expert runs.
Intermediate Riders: You’ll find a vast expanse of well-groomed runs perfect for carving up the packed powder. The resort keeps these pistes in prime condition, making it ideal for honing your skills.
Advanced and Experts: For those seeking a challenge, the upper mountain is where it’s at. You’ll get access to off-piste options, tree skiing, and backcountry chutes and bowls. Notable spots include Punta Nevada and La Laguna, which offer steep chutes and cliff bands. Be sure to have your avalanche safety gear and make sure to hire a local guide to navigate these areas.
Freestyle Fun: The Nubes terrain park is one of the most progressive in South America, featuring jumps, rails, and boxes for all levels. With a dedicated lift and a full-time staff, this park is always in top shape and hosts various events and competitions throughout the season.
Trail Map of Cerro Catedral
Spectacular Views
One of the standout features of Cerro Catedral is the breathtaking views it offers. From various points on the mountain, you can soak in stunning vistas of Nahuel Huapi Lake and the surrounding Andes mountains. These views have been highly praised, making Cerro Catedral known for having some of the most spectacular scenery in the skiing world. The combination of the dramatic landscapes and the panoramic views of the lake and mountains creates an unforgettable backdrop for your skiing adventures.
The Facilities
Cerro Catedral isn’t just about epic terrain; it also boasts top-notch facilities. The base village is packed with amenities, including restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops, ensuring you have everything you need right at your fingertips.
Dining in Cerro Catedral
There are several mountain restaurants with spectacular views and world-class Argentine cuisine. La Roca is great for breakfast, offering traditional dishes with stunning vistas. For lunch, Kuntsmann provides a budget-friendly option with a variety of food and beers. After a day on the slopes, El Living Del Almacén serves comforting meals perfect for refueling. You can also savor world-class Argentine Malbec wines that rank in the top 1% globally on Vivino.
Additional dining options at the base of Cerro Catedral:
- Mute Bariloche: This bar and restaurant is known for its lively après-ski scene. Enjoy a variety of drinks, live music, and a great menu featuring local and international dishes.
- Samsara: A cozy spot offering a range of dishes from traditional Argentine cuisine to more international flavors. It’s a great place to relax and enjoy a hearty meal after a day on the slopes.
- El Barrilete: This family-friendly restaurant offers a warm atmosphere with a menu featuring classic Argentine dishes, including grilled meats and fresh salads.
- La Cueva: Known for its rustic charm, La Cueva offers delicious Argentine fare with a focus on meats and traditional sides. It’s a perfect spot for a hearty dinner.
- Tage: A stylish restaurant with a contemporary menu. Tage offers a mix of Argentine and international dishes, beautifully presented and perfect for a more upscale dining experience.
- Jackson’s: A popular spot for both locals and tourists, Jackson’s offers a variety of comfort foods and local specialties. It’s a great place to unwind with friends and enjoy a casual meal.
- Don Molina: This steakhouse is renowned for its high-quality meats and extensive wine list. It’s a must-visit for anyone looking to experience authentic Argentine steak.
- El Balcón: Offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains, El Balcón serves a variety of traditional and modern dishes. The restaurant is known for its excellent service and beautiful setting.
Après Ski in Cerro Catedral
The place to be for après ski is Après Catedral, located at the base of the mountain in the Shopping Las Terrazas. This bar is the heart of the action, known for its lively atmosphere, live DJs, and great drinks. It’s a hotspot where skiers gather to unwind and party after a day on the slopes. The vibe is electric, especially on weekends when the place stays open until 2 AM with a mix of local and international DJs spinning house and dance music.
Shopping
Las Terrazas shopping mall at the base has nearly 50 shops, offering everything from ski gear to souvenirs. Plaza Amancay is another bustling spot for all your shopping needs.
Lift Infrastructure
Cerro Catedral features one of the most modern lift infrastructures in South America. With 38 lifts, including a gondola, a tram, and several high-speed chairlifts, the resort can handle up to 35,000 skiers per hour. However, don’t expect the same standards as in the U.S. or Europe. The main lifts like the Amancay Gondola and the fast six-pack chairlift ensure you spend more time shredding and less time waiting. Despite these improvements, lift lines can still be an issue during peak times, so patience is key.
Where to Stay in Cerro Catedral
Check out available accommodation options in Cerro Catedral in the map below. Further down you find a list with some descriptions.
The following hotels are all within walking distance to the ski lifts in Cerro Catedral:
4-Star Hotels
- HEAVEN CATEDRAL
- Distance: 0.2 miles (0.32 km)
- Features: Private pool, free Wi-Fi, free parking, city views.
- Description: Luxury accommodations with a private pool and stunning city views, ideal for a relaxing stay near the slopes when skiing in Bariloche.
- Refugio Knapp
- Distance: 0.2 miles (0.32 km)
- Features: Ski-to-door access, free Wi-Fi, restaurant, bar, breakfast included.
- Description: Provides convenient ski-to-door access, comfortable rooms, and amenities like an on-site restaurant and bar. Breakfast is included to start your ski day right in Bariloche.
3-Star Hotels
- Complejo Base 41
- Distance: 0.1 miles (0.16 km)
- Features: Fully furnished apartments, free Wi-Fi, ski storage, ski equipment rental.
- Description: Comfortable apartments with easy access to ski lifts, ideal for a ski vacation with amenities like ski storage and equipment rental.
- Hotel Punta Condor
- Distance: 0.1 miles (0.16 km)
- Features: Mountain views, free Wi-Fi, two swimming pools, sauna.
- Description: Offers stunning mountain views, two swimming pools, and a sauna, perfect for relaxing after skiing.
- Club Hotel Catedral Spa & Resort
- Distance: 0.1 miles (0.16 km)
- Features: Free WiFi, Free parking, Full-service spa, Indoor and outdoor pools, Restaurant, Bar/lounge.
- Description: Luxurious resort with prime ski-in/ski-out access, a full-service spa, and indoor and outdoor pools.
- Apartur Catedral
- Distance: 0.2 miles (0.32 km)
- Features: Alpine style accommodations, ski storage, ski rental, restaurant.
- Description: Offers charming alpine-style accommodations with convenient ski storage and rental services, plus an on-site restaurant.
- Village Catedral
- Distance: 0.3 miles (0.48 km)
- Features: Free WiFi, Free parking, Spa services, Indoor pool, Restaurant, Ski-in/ski-out access.
- Description: Features direct ski-in/ski-out access, a relaxing indoor pool, and spa services, with an on-site restaurant.
- Galileo Boutique Hotel
- Distance: 0.5 miles (0.80 km)
- Features: Free WiFi, Free parking, Hot tub, Restaurant, Bar/lounge, Breakfast available.
- Description: Offers a cozy and intimate atmosphere, with a hot tub and on-site dining options.
Not Rated Hotels
- Kurtem Lodge
- Distance: 0.1 miles (0.16 km)
- Features: Self-catering bungalows, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, free parking.
- Description: Offers self-catering bungalows with the comforts of home, ideal for families or groups.
Accommodation Options Near Cerro Catedral
The hotels right at the base of Cerro Catedral can be quite expensive. An alternative is to stay in the nearby town of Villa Los Coihues and hire a car to get you to and from the ski resort. Many hotels can assist with arranging drivers, and the rates are quite reasonable, typically around USD 10-15 one way. This option offers a cost-effective solution while still allowing you to enjoy the slopes at Cerro Catedral.
The map below shows available accommodations in Villa Los Coihues. You can also zoom out to explore options further north at the famous Nahuel Huapi Lake. However, be aware that these accommodations can also be pricey.
Private Skiing in Baguales
For the true powder chasers, Baguales is the spot. This hidden gem is about a two hours drive from Bariloche and offers the most legendary backcountry and cat skiing around. Forget lifts – you’ll be either skinning or riding snowcats to untouched powder fields. Think private backcountry tours with fresh tracks all day long. It’s the dream.
Luxurious Lodge and Backcountry Adventures
The ultimate highlight is the insanely plush lodge. In all my cat and heli-skiing exploits, this spot definitely ranks in the top three of all time. The lounge features a massive central fireplace that creates a warm and cozy vibe, perfect for chilling after hitting the pow. The après-ski buffet and drinks are next-level. The bedrooms are stunning, with modern bathrooms, and there’s a hot tub to soak your muscles after a gnarly day on your skis or board.
Gear
The operator in Baguales has killer backcountry and safety gear that you can use at no extra cost. However, we still recommend bringing your own boots, skis, and skins since the selection might be limited, and ill-fitting boots can be a real pain, especially when skinning. But don’t worry, the safety equipment like the airbag backpack, beacon, shovel, and probe are top-notch.
Cat Skiing in Baguales
Cat skiing in Baguales is a premium experience that takes you to untouched powder stashes. The snowcat hauls you up the mountain, giving you access to pristine slopes perfect for advanced skiers and snowboarders.
Backcountry Skiing in Baguales
For those who prefer to earn their turns, guided backcountry tours are also available, rewarding you with epic steep drops and tree runs. It is also an option if weather conditions do not allow for the cats to run.
If you’re looking to dive into this extraordinary adventure, contact us for details.
Visit Bariloche Town
Don’t miss exploring the picturesque town of Bariloche. Known for its charming alpine feel, with Swiss-style architecture, and vibrant nightlife, Bariloche has plenty to offer.
Things to Do
- Civic Center: Visit this iconic spot with its beautiful stone buildings and the Museum of Patagonia.
- Chocolate Shops: Bariloche is famous for its chocolate, with Mamuschka and Rapa Nui being must-visits.
- Cerro Otto: Take a cable car ride for panoramic views and dine at the revolving restaurant.
- Lake Nahuel Huapi: Enjoy boat tours, kayaking, or simply relax by the lakeside.
- Hiking and Biking: Explore trails in the Nahuel Huapi National Park.
- Craft Beer Tasting: Bariloche has a thriving craft beer scene with breweries like Cervecería Patagonia.
- Shopping: Stroll along Mitre Street for local crafts, souvenirs, and more chocolate.
Best Activities
- Day Trips: Take excursions to Cerro Catedral for skiing or to the Llao Llao peninsula for stunning views and luxury golf courses.
- Adventure Sports: Try paragliding, zip-lining, or mountain biking in the surrounding areas.
Nightlife
Bariloche’s nightlife is vibrant with numerous bars, clubs, and restaurants. Popular spots include Wilkenny and Cervecería Manush for a fun night out.
Embrace the alpine charm and diverse activities in Bariloche for an unforgettable experience.
Where to Stay in Bariloche
Bariloche offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit every budget. If your flight leaves in the morning, we’d recommend you book a night in Bariloche before transferring to the airport. Better even, stay a few days to explore the picturesque town.
We highly recommend choosing a property right by the lake for breathtaking views. The stunning scenery of Lake Nahuel Huapi is not to be missed, making your stay in Bariloche truly memorable.
We stayed at Hotel Peninsula Petit. Though it’s a bit remote from the town center, the stunning lake views, super friendly staff, and amazing breakfasts and dinners made it totally worth it. Buses run regularly into town, and the staff even lent us their bus card -and we just refunded them the balance we used (the bus rides cost next to nothing). They can book a car to town and back for you instead, too.
You can search for accommodation options in the map below to find the perfect place to stay and enjoy one of the most stunning views on earth.
Transportation
- Car Rentals: The best way to explore Bariloche and its surroundings is by renting a car. This gives you the freedom to visit remote areas and enjoy scenic drives. The hotels can help with car rental recommendations.
- Public Transport: Buses are available but can be infrequent and crowded, especially during rush hours. Be prepared for packed buses during peak times.
- Taxis: Hailing taxis from the street is an option, but during busy hours, it can be challenging to get hold of one. For a smoother experience, consider booking a taxi or remise (private hire car) in advance through local services like Remises Auto Jet or Remises Bariloche. This ensures you have reliable transportation, particularly during peak times.
Where to Eat in Bariloche
Bariloche is a foodie’s paradise with a diverse culinary scene. Here are some top places to dine:
- Alto el Fuego
- Cuisine: Steakhouse, Barbecue, Argentinian
- Description: Known for its exquisite steak dinners, this restaurant offers an authentic Argentine barbecue experience with high-quality meats and a cozy atmosphere.
- Manush
- Cuisine: Comfort Food, Craft Beer
- Description: Offers a wide selection of craft beers and hearty comfort food. The chicken pot pie and beef stew are standout dishes. Perfect for a warm, satisfying meal after a day of exploring.
- El Boliche de Alberto
- Cuisine: Argentinian, Steakhouse
- Description: Famous for its large steaks, this is the go-to place for a classic Argentinian dining experience. The steaks are huge and cooked to perfection, offering a true taste of Argentina.
- Quiven Patagonia House Kitchen
- Cuisine: Contemporary, Argentinian
- Description: Located in a beautiful part of Bariloche, this restaurant features an 8-step tasting menu with beautifully presented dishes that showcase different textures and cooking techniques.
- La Cervecería Kunstmann
- Cuisine: German, Brew Pub
- Description: Known for its extensive selection of craft beers and German-style dishes, this brew pub is a favorite among both locals and visitors. Try the lamb burger paired with a craft beer for a delightful meal.
- La Masia
- Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, Argentinian
- Description: Offers a mix of Italian and Mediterranean cuisine with a touch of Argentinian flavor. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, making it perfect for a relaxed meal.
- Stag
- Cuisine: Fusion, Healthy, Argentinian
- Description: Combines healthy eating with fusion cuisine, offering a range of dishes that are both nutritious and delicious. The modern setting adds to the dining experience.
- El Refugio de Arelauquen
- Cuisine: Argentinian
- Description: This restaurant provides a fine dining experience with a focus on local ingredients. The views from the restaurant are spectacular, adding to the overall experience.
- La Casita Restaurante
- Cuisine: Swiss, European, Argentinian
- Description: Offers a blend of Swiss and European dishes with an Argentinian twist. The cozy ambiance and excellent service make it a great spot for a meal.
- Almazen de Sabores
- Cuisine: Deli, Contemporary, Fusion, Argentinian
- Description: A deli-style restaurant that offers contemporary and fusion dishes. The menu is diverse, and the dishes are made with fresh, local ingredients.
Local Cuisine in Bariloche
Eat Like a Local:
- Patagonian Lamb: A must-try, known for its rich flavor and tender meat.
- Trout: Fresh from the local lakes, often served grilled or smoked.
- Dulce de Leche: Enjoy this sweet caramel-like treat in various desserts.
- Empanadas: Savory pastries filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables.
- Argentine Steaks: World-renowned for their quality and flavor.
Local Delicacies:
- Chocolate: Bariloche is famous for its chocolate, with numerous artisanal shops offering delicious treats. Don’t miss out on visiting Mamuschka and Rapa Nui for some of the best chocolate in town.
Bariloche’s culinary scene offers something for everyone, from hearty steaks to delicate pastries, making it a food lover’s dream destination
Safety
- Stay Safe: Bariloche is generally safe, but watch your stuff in crowded spots, especially during peak tourist season.
- Emergency Numbers: Keep local emergency numbers handy and know the location of the nearest medical facilities.
Conclusion
Bariloche is the stuff of legends, from the groomed runs of Cerro Catedral to the untouched pow of Baguales. Pack your gear, bring some cash, and get ready for the ride of your life. With its stunning landscapes, rich culture, and endless adventures, skiing in Bariloche is an experience you’ll never forget. Catch you on the slopes, shredders!
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